California is kinda a pain to deal with!! My brother has the outlaw. In my opinion i would get the outlaw because you don't have to mix the gas or put oil in the oil reservoir. Join Date Mar Posts I know what you mean!
My son grew up on a TRX There are a few reasons I like the Polaris's better, the first issue is the automatic transmission, its just another step I could do without for now. While it was good for my son, my girls cant handle the shifting. Reverse is also a nice option that the outlaw has.
Finally, they come in Pink, which is another major plus! For carving bowls and jumping off razorbacks in the dunes, the straight axle machine is the better of the two.
However, the Maxxis Razr tire choice is not ideal for dune conditions. A rounder radial type tire, that is found on the IRS Outlaw, provides better floatation in the sand. At high speeds, the Outlaw S tends to wander in sand or dirt. The twitchy front end reminds us a little of the Kawasaki KFX It has separate shocks on all four corners that are preload adjustable in the rear and compression and preload adjustable up front. A-arms on all four corners provide ten inches of movement. The rougher, rockier and ruttier the better.
This machine has more ground clearance than any other sport ATV currently offered. This means line selection is not as crucial on the nasty trails that would usually damage or stop a quad in its tracks. The IRS equipped machine had a more planted feel on nearly every trail. Neither machine works very well on consistent whooped-out trails. The extra weight of the IRS is also a hindrance in the deeper evenly spaced whoops.
Complete suspension and handling action is better on the IRS machine in almost every type of terrain. For a trail quad, the Outlaw IRS is the favorite of the two. If you are not an aggressive jumper or dune carver, the IRS feels at home in the sand dunes. It works better than most quads at soaking up choppy sand, and you can still throw a good roost with this machine. In fact, the Outlaw MXR utilizes the same engine. A smaller bore measurement on the is the only difference between them.
However, they do have a dual overhead cam, four-valve dirtbike engine. The ATVs all get electric starting, liquid-cooling and a five-speed transmission controlled by a hydraulically operated manual clutch. Actually, the KTM powertrain started life as a six-speed; however, as requested by Polaris, KTM engineers removed the sixth gear and replaced it with a simple gear-driven, cable-actuated reverse system. In our flat road drag race tests, surprisingly the lighter pound S was not always the winner.
Not only is traction better on the pound IRS equipped Outlaw, weight distribution is far superior. With nearly every start, the S would wheelie off the line or spin the rear tires too much. The IRS equipped machine would hook up and get the holeshot on every run. The lighter S front end was even more evident in our hill climb runs. Riders had to do a lot of body weight adjusting to get the right combo of rear end traction and earth contact with the front tires.
It took a very long run over yards for the S to ever recover and make a pass for the lead. If we were on an episode of Pinks, drag racing for title on almost any dirt trail, we would pick the Outlaw IRS as our weapon.
In addition to the piggyback shocks, the LE version had a Pure Polaris bumper, grab bar, and exhaust. They went with a Piggyback reservoir rear shock instead of a remote reservoir, black frames on all models, and a red standard model, and a white TLD model. They also offered a black Smiley Edition with the close ratio transmission, Razr2 tires, piggyback front shocks, and a Pure Polaris bumper, grab bar, and exhaust.
Colors and options changed. The standard models were offered in both white and black and had budget front Ryde FX shocks, updated steering to eliminate the PRO steering, Razr PR tires, unique upper a-arms from the rest of the Predators, and several parts that it shared with the Outlaw model such as the radiator, brake master cylinder, reverse lever. There was also an LE model that was offered in black that sported Podium X shocks, wide ratio transmission, and Razr-r tires.
Outlaw: Outlaws were made from The Outlaw features IRS which was a first on a sport quad. The 06 model also had the coveted Fox piggyback rear shocks that many IRS owners upgrade to along with the Fox front shocks.
The 06 Outlaw was only offered in black and sported Dunlop radial tires. The 's were offered in white and black and the 's were offered mainly in black, but saw a limited build of white plastics. This was the only year that the and IRS machines were offered for sale at the same time. The frames between the two models are totally different so there's no swapping motors. Both 07 models had Ryde FX shocks on all four corners. The 07 also had the wide ratio transmission. Mid year 07 saw an upgrade to needle bearings on the rear upper outer control arm pivot.
You can tell if your machine is updated by removing the rear tire and checking to see if there is a grease zerk that points outwards on the upper rear knuckle pivot. The only things that changed on the IRS was the color and front shocks: it was now red with a white side panel and had Fox front shocks and Ryde FX rears.
The MXR was only offered in red while the S was offered in red and white. New body plastic and ergonomics were the excitement even though they were only offered in red from here out.
The mechanics of each machine remained mostly unchanged. Every machine received a suspension upgrade in one way or another. Both straight axle machines received a cut rear shock same eye to eye length, but more shaft travel with new springs. Because of the increased travel, the brake caliper is rotated to the rear to prevent it from contacting the exhaust. The front shocks on all machines received a new spring package as well. The IRS machine went to Fox shocks all the way around along with a new spring setup out back that accompanied the new 10 inch rear wheels which allowed more clearance to the a-arms.
All 09 models also had a vacuum operated fuel pump. All models except the S retained the same tires; it received the Razr-r's that were once on the IRS machine. The IRS machine also had the battery relocated beneath the radiator and right in front of the engine and had the foot pegs relocated 1" further forward. Only the IRS remained and the only difference was the front hood was changed to red instead of black.
By this point in time, if the transmission has not failed, it most likely won't. The boot from the carb to the motor is prone to crack when over tightened on the RFS powered Outlaws. Check to make sure your side panel plastic is not rubbing a hole in the radiator on Outlaws. The seat tends to fall off on Outlaws. They updated the seat latch in 08, but the problem remained even though it was not as bad. The only solution is to extend the tab on the gas tank and pin the rear latch.
The sprocket bolts on all IRS machines can loosen if they don't have Loc-tite on them. There was an update from Polaris that used different bolts and tabs under them that bent up to prevent the bolt from spinning. Many people had this update fail on them. The best solution is red Loc-tite with the stock bolts and to keep an eye on them.
Be careful with the drain plugs on the KTM motors. They don't need to be gorilla tight and strip easily. Don't drop the bottom long oil screen into the KTM motor. Take your time and use something to align the screen with the pocket on the other side of the case. Fabricate a set of fender braces to eliminate the cracking. This is especially useful if you ride in the mud a lot. Grease the ball joints and steering ends with a grease needle.
There is very little grease in them from the factory and a little additional grease goes a long way. Front wheel bearings are a weak point on most of the Polaris sport quads. Either be ready with a set of stock bearings or replace them with a tapered aftermarket set. Keep an eye on the chain slider on all straight axle machines. They tend to eat through them fairly quickly and will continue eating into the swingarm if you don't catch it in time. If you lose clutch feel on the KTM powered Outlaws and can't see where the fluid is going, your slave cylinder most likely needs to be replaced.
If your machine will not start in gear with the clutch lever pulled in, your clutch lever sensor will most likely need to be replaced. Test this by jumping the two clutch sensor wires together and hit the start button while in gear have clutch lever pulled in too! The intake trunk on Predator models has a tough time staying on the carb. Don't overtighten the clamp as it deforms the trunk and keep a close eye on it.
Do NOT stand up the Predators all years on their grab bars without first pinching the breather line running from the transmission to the airbox. If this is left open, all the oil will drain into the airbox. The crank nut on the KTM motors can loosen over time and make the engine sound like a rock crusher. Simply remove the entire clutch side case cover and see if the nut is loose. This nut is also LEFT hand threaded! If it is loose, remove it, clean each surface, apply Loc-tite, and tighten nut.
It is also good practice to let the Loc-tite dry before running the engine. Sway bars on all IRS machines can break at the bend or mounting tabs. They typically do this under hard use and can damage the CV boots if not caught right away. Others have replaced the sway bar all together with an adjustable unit from Fuj. Make sure your rear hub nuts are tight and hub bearings are good on IRS machines. If not, you can break the rear hub where it necks down inside the bearing.
The only way to find if it is broken is if you disassemble the hub or if you leave it long enough for the remaining portion of the hub to strip out.
If the rear end of your IRS is clicking CV joint noise usually while turning it is because the center machined hub is shot or has debris in it. You either need to disassemble the entire housing and clean the CV joints or order a complete new assembly which is very reasonably priced for what you get.
If your machine has overheating issues and the rest of the cooling system is working properly, the first thing to do is completely remove the radiator and clean it. You'll be amazed how much crud is still in a "washed" radiator once you remove it to clean it. This applies to any quad. If you know you're going to be riding in mud, cut a same sized furnace filter to place in front of the radiator. Be sure to crack the bleeder screw on the head of KTM motors when refilling them with coolant.
If you don't, this traps an air pocket in the head and causes heating issues. Improper throttle cable adjustment can kill the motor. Symptoms are usually that you have to hold the throttle slightly or it will die at idle. Test this by removing the plug attached to the throttle housing. This is the sensor that monitors if the throttle is stuck open. Keep up on adjusting valves. The tell-tale sign that your intake valves are tight is if your machine will pop start but not start with the start button.
Once warm, the machine will start with the button. If you let this go too long, it will damage your valves and head. KTM's are super easy to adjust valves on while the Fuji is more in depth but equally important. Loaded topic, but here is a summary. Pick an oil that YOU feel comfortable with. There's typically a balance between price and quality for all oils. This choice also goes hand in hand with how often you change the oil.
I shoot for every 10 engine hours or less depending on use. An engine hour meter is a great tool for keeping track of maintenance. Synthetic or non synthetic doesn't matter as long as it's approved for a wet clutch. More power you say? For all of the Polaris sport quads, a full exhaust system is usually a waste of money. The stock headers flow very well. The kit for the Fuji engines is a great way to gain power for a fair price.
The stock cams in the engine are more than enough for the kit let alone the stock bore. Leave them alone! Hot Cams make this motor very weak.
All of the cheap aftermarket CDI's don't retard the timing upon startup and can cause the motor to fire in the incorrect direction. This will fry your one way clutch and send metal throughout your motor.
Vortex or Dyna are safe bets. Boring the carb on the KTM motors is a great bang for your buck. Up to a As for intakes on all these machines, that's up to you.
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